If you are new to reloading there is some basic information that you should consider before you start tucking them in your sock drawer. I would also strongly suggest you do some homework and check your local laws rather than just rely on info from someone like myself who just stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night. Various state and national fire codes have minimum standards for storage regarding methods and quantities. That's what the insurance companies go with, for what it's worth.
I am still learning about primers but over the years I learned about smart, AND dumb things to do with explosives.
I am still learning about primers but over the years I learned about smart, AND dumb things to do with explosives.

Just as I think many of you know about hazmat to some degree.
Due to their explosive nature it is recommended that only an absolute minimum should be kept in storage. The National Fire Protection Association' NFPA 495 says that not more than 10,000 primers should be stored in a private residence. This recommendation is law in most communities so you might wish to check your local laws.
But think of it, 1,000 each large rifle, large rifle magnum, small rifle, large pistol, large pistol magnum, small pistol, small pistol magnum, and shotshell primers. That's 8,000 primers folks so with care in replacing those supplies used most people should have plenty on hand.
The two biggest dangers for primers (outside of not being able to find any) is
(1) HEAT
(2) HUMIDITY.
It goes without saying that you want to store primers in a remote location away from any source of ignition (that includes bullet impact). Watch for any potentials for high heat, spark, electrical percussion in your storage area. A general run through for potential dangers before setting up your reloading and storage area before you make your purchases is a good idea.
Keep them away from from oxidizing agents, flammable liquids, and flammable solids (including handloading powders), children, pets or idiots (including those related to you). Always store primers in their original packaging, which is designed for safety. Never store primers in bulk, such as in a can or jar.
It goes without saying that you want to store primers in a remote location away from any source of ignition (that includes bullet impact). Watch for any potentials for high heat, spark, electrical percussion in your storage area. A general run through for potential dangers before setting up your reloading and storage area before you make your purchases is a good idea.
Keep them away from from oxidizing agents, flammable liquids, and flammable solids (including handloading powders), children, pets or idiots (including those related to you). Always store primers in their original packaging, which is designed for safety. Never store primers in bulk, such as in a can or jar.
A gun safe is NOT the best place to keep them. A storage cabinet is strongly recommended, constructed of at least 1 inch thick lumber which will delay the transfer of heat to the contents in the event of a fire. The storage cabinet should be kept away from direct sun rays, open flames (well duh), trash or other combustibles, sources of heat, furnaces, solvents, flammable gasses (well you get the picture).
And yes, despite commenters warnings on my blog from fire marshal Bill and other friends, I do store some primers in an ammo can. Why? Long term storage. (Think future days of not being able to find primers as opposed to saving a few for a rainy day during the zombie apocalypse). I have primers stored this way that go back to the Clinton era that still work.
Yes, there are inherent dangers of this, frankly, in ANY storage of explosive bits and pieces. Primers are a primary explosive and just putting too many of them together in one place makes them "a bomb" whether they are contained or not. The metal box storage would be a concussion explosion and the shrapnel not as much as you think, but certainly is a risk. Anyone that reloads in any bulk has all kinds of stuff that will go "boom". Some do it in shops separate from the home, some do it in home with precautions, such as a magazine built in to the structure.
Stored in their original containers, packed in a can, I think the risk of them "cooking off" on their own is pretty slim. But NO, an ammo box WILL NOT "contain" them if they did cook off. But I wouldn't want something that strong anyway, because it would only increase the explosive release if it does go up (why I don't store them in a gun safe, among other reasons). For long term storage I think the sides of a GI box would blow out plenty fast enough to prevent excessive pressure build up and it protects your primers from humidity like nothing else if you want to store for years, not months.
Some of the primers around the Range have been stored for a very long time , and are still good. Had they been in plastic, even with desiccant they'd probably be duds now. (click to enlarge and look at the price on this box. Want to guess how old it is?) This box was stored in an ammo can, not the plastic can and they are as good as new.
But I know there will be many that disagree with me and there's lots of discussion pro and con in the forums on storage. If you're worried about a fire, store your primers in a plastic ammo box, like you see pictured, still in their original packaging. The original packaging is designed to be non-static so you shouldn't have a problem with the plastic box. If a fire will causes the box to melt and if the primers cook off, when the first package pops it will probably help scatter the rest of them. A pack of 50-100 primers would make a decent bang but the flying bits are small and low powered. Plastic is fine for short term, but in my humble opinion if you want primers that will be useful 10 years from now, plastic is not going to cut it unless you own a desiccant factory.My primers are stored in their original boxes, with several desiccant pouches and a humidity indicator. I have the primers I'm going to use soon in plastic containers, with desiccant, but I also have a couple ammo cans packed long term need, one for one for small rifle & pistol primers, the other for large & magnum primers. They're kept in a cool, dry environment until I might need them some day when times get tough, and I only keep the can in use long enough to select what I'm going to use, and occasionally replacing the desiccant.
I've never heard of primers, in their box, stored in an ammo can, going off on their own. In a reloader, yes, but the can no. Has anyone else? If my house burns I'm in a lot more danger from all the ammo then from two or three cans of primers stored in can in a carefully constructed magazine.
Powder is a whole other issue for long term storage. Powder stored in a pressure containing device (like a sealed ammo can) is NOT a good idea because powder is designed to burn and create a gas and if you put it in to a sealed container. . .well. . .
I don't keep my powder in any kind of a sealed or air-tight container, but I feel safe in putting some of the primers in an ammo can. I don't want anything to crush them and make them pop, and I don't want flame to get to them and make them pop. I also don't want humid air attacking them.
If you are going to store primers in some cabinet in your house there ARE some basic rules you wish to follow. Don't use your primer cabinet to store -
If you are going to store primers in some cabinet in your house there ARE some basic rules you wish to follow. Don't use your primer cabinet to store -
(a) your girlfriends Cosco purchase of 8 gallons of nail polish remover,
(b) your blow torch or
(c) your emergency bacon rations. (well just because).
(d) your powders
Naturally, never smoke around primers. If where you reload is frequented by guests or household members that may not be familiar with the process, No Smoking signs in the storage area and at the loading bench aren't a bad idea.
Again, these are just some basics and what I do. Others will have better info,, others will disagree. But on the issue of the ammo argument you might wish to reference
49 CFR, Subpart 173.62, packing instruction 133.
Boring yes, it's the federal requirements for packaging Primers, Cap Type, UN0044 (i.e., ALL small arms primers that we the public use). According to that reference, primers MUST be packaged in a certain way, but choices are allowed within certain parameters. For example:
It references inner packing consisting of "Trays, fitted with dividing partitions" as one option, (this is what some of you are used to seeing).The reg above requires that if the primers are housed in trays, as mentioned in (1), then intermediate packagings are required. Follow the link above to page 11 of the PDF, look at the "Intermediate packagings" column for packing instruction 133, and see that we can store the tray of primers in a receptacle made of (our choice) fiberboard, wood, plastic, or METAL.
Finally, the regulation gives folks that fall under their guidelines a choice of outer packaging, noted in the 3rd column of the same page 11 of said PDF-- steel box, aluminum box, wooden box, plywood box, and plastic box, among others.
I know these regs don't apply to us the individual, but it's nice to read what they consider some safe choices for various purposes.
Use common sense, check out local laws if you are so inclined, and follow some standard safety practices of not just HOW you store them, but WHERE.
For frankly, given where I live, and what's on the radar, I worry more about Mother Nature than Mr. Primer. Here's a prayer for all you folks in the gulf (no, this photos is old, not Isaac).
23 comments:
"And yes, despite commenters warnings on my blog from fire marshal Bill and other friends,..."
Rats... I'm guessing you've heard all of Fire Marshall Bill's pearls of wisdom. Oh Well...
I could put up some links anyway, If you'ld like! =)
This brought two things to mind. One was our old armory in NJROTC in high school. The NJROTC had it's own building, and there was a small armory inside for drill and target rifles and ammo. Concrete block, big heavy door. It was not, however, sealed. If ammo cooked off, gas could escape but the walls/door were sufficient to stop (bulk .22 target ammo, nothing too big).
Next was an article in a shop magazine (wish I could find a link) that described a fire resistant cabinet. Instead of the 1" think solid wood as you described, it was instead layered 1/2" gypsum board, with overlapping seams. A simple wood frame provided the structure for the board. On contemplation, I would think that would provide you some measure of heat/fire resistance while blowing apart (i.e, not containing pressure) in the event of a real inferno.
Of course, my ammo is in ammo cans in a locked cabinet. They also happen to be the deepest corner of the basement, so if the fire has reached there.... we're all dead or far away anyway.
Nice work. It's always good for new people to have the information shared for their benefit. It's also always a good thing for the experienced to get an occasional refresher just to make sure they remember the basics.
Just one more reason to love your blog.
My three favourite letters in English: NEQ.
Jim
I keep my primers in plastic ammo cans I picked up cheap at Cabelas. I do have some metal ammo cans, but alas, they are filled with ammo. My current Cabelas shopping list include a couple more ammo cans.
Harder to find is packets of dessicant for the cans.
I have some WLR primer boxes marked @$8.99/thousand.
Still go bang.
What I've done in the past with the metal ammo can idea is to take a 1 inch hole saw (fine teeth) and thin a place from the inside of the lid. This directs the force of the "blowout". Powder kept in a cheap metal file cabinet also equipped with blowout.
YeOldFurt
An old refrigerator with good door seals, cleaned and stone dry, is a great place to store powder and primers. But, please, not both in the same fridge
YeOldFurt - Why do I suddenly have the image of the Crimson Permanent Assurance in my head?
Jim
I bought some old wooden ammo boxes from the CMP and lined them with drywall. I keep the lids loose and store my primer and powder in them (separate boxes, naturally). The primers I keep in a heavy ziploc bag with an indicating desiccant bag. And I keep the boxes on the floor (which is the coolest place in a fire). My man-cave shed is attached to the house, which is where I keep all my explodables (primers, powder, 100K of ammo). I'd like to put an NFPA placard outside, to help firemen, but I don't know what to put on it.
Detonation of component primers WILL get your attention - I've had it happen twice while reloading, and each time one popped primer made my ears ring for almost 3 days. After the second detonation, I took to wearing my electronic range muffs while reloading - FYI, the culprit in each case turned out to be a .38 Spl case that, by freak occurrence, had had the anvil and the center of the spent primer punched out by the de-capping pin, but which left the spent primer's sidewalls stuck in the primer pocket(possibly as a result of an excessively-high-pressure loading). The sidewalls were not readily seen during a casual inspection of the cases, but when I attempted to re-prime the case, the sidewalls caught the anvil of the new primer and caused it to detonate the primer pellet during the seating process.
Primers are too scarce and too dear nowadays to waste them, but back when primers were readily available for about $1/100, I was told how to use them to make a "reloader's grenade" or "poor man's flash-bang":
- Place a good number of primers(up to one 100-ct. packet) into a corner of a thin plastic sandwich bag or grocery produce bag;
- Gently add a small hard object such as a rock, D-cell battery, etc.;
- Tie off the corner, leaving as little slack and airspace as possible;
- When ready for the "earth-shattering KA-BOOM," whirl the bag around smartly like David's Lil' Giant-Killer Sling a few times and let 'er fly at or into a hard object or a hard-surfaced impact area such as a parking lot. Upon impact, the hard object in the bag will crush and detonate at least one of the primers, which will then chain-detonate most or all of the remainder. There WILL be some flying metal shrapnel, but it is relatively safe provided that everyone nearby is at least a dozen long strides away, is wearing eye/ear protection, and is either behind something/someone, or has as much skin as possible covered by clothing.
Phil - great advice. Thanks. I still consider myself a beginner and all the information from you and Andy and everyone is great.
Good info.
I've accidentally popped a primer only once. It was when I first started reloading military brass and forgot to remove the military primer crimp from the primer pocket.
That Hazardous Materials Data Sheet is great! LOL!
Newer reader to your blog and Newbie to reloading. Good post! Thanks for all the info and all that responded. Last thing I want is an accidental BANG in my shop!
Not sure where you found the Elemental description of Woman, but I want a full sized one.
Borepatch - full sized version coming your way via email.
Brigid - Any idea why metal ammo boxes are better than plastic for keeping primers fresh? I've got mine in an airtight Tupperware container, with a dessicant, but haven't done any reloading in four or five years.
I'm thinking that if primers don't go bad in ammo that's not stored so carefully, what makes the primers outside the casing more vulnerable?
Clark - I have heard from others that for LONG term, plastic doesn't get quit the seal for air tightness that metal does. Not sure if this is true but I've heard it from more than one local reloader. Some of the newer ones do have foam seals which would probably take care of that problem though or you could perhaps add some insulating strips from Lowe's. Just an idea, not sure if anyone here has tried that.
Just had a thought (they come less frequently these days): I wonder if those plastic shrink-wrap baggies that you seal and suck the air out of would work with primers?
I've been tempted to buy one of those kits they're pushing at Wally World, and this might be just the nudge I need.
The problem with plastic containers may be the vapor permeability of the material itself. Plastic gas cans/vehicle fuel tanks were only possible after the development of a flourination process used to create an impermeable layer in the plastic after the part is formed.
Does the 10,000 primer limit include loaded ammunition :-) ????
I secure my long term storage primers the same way I store the extra brick of .22LR I buy every month. I wrap the 1,000 primer box in aluminum foil, wrap it again in tape, mark the tape for contents and date, and put it in a plastic bag.
It goes in a .50 cal can placed on a shelf in the cellar, down low but not touching the floor or wall.
Time isn't much of a factor in primer performance, but temperature cycling is. Going up and down in temp induces condensation, so my 55 degree plus or minus a skinch cellar fairly well replicates the conditions in a military storage bunker.
Also, dessicant is a no-no unless the individual boxes are sealed. The primers are assembled in 30% humidity, and anything much less causes the cake (the pressed mixture) to crumble.
I try to stay 2 or 3 years ahead of my needs, and manage pretty well with most primers, although I have several thousand Winchester Large Rifle primers at the moment going back 5 years, which means I haven't been loading enough 30-06 and 7.5 Swiss recently.
The .22LR is loading up, and I'm about 18 bricks behind my usual storage limit of a dozen or so, meaning I'll have to find an indoor club where I can shoot 4 position smallbore evenings during winter/mud season.
And get one of those gorgeous mil surplus H&R copies of the Winchester 52 target. I just was offered one NIB for $400 w/o sights. Gotta happen.
For Jeff (and anyone else who desires to identify their storage area with NFPA markings, to aid firefighters responding to an emergency at their home, which I strongly recommend) -
The NFPA 704 marking system (described in detail here: http://www.mcc.co.mercer.pa.us/DPS/nfpamarkingsystem.htm ) consists of a diamond-shaped placard divided into four sections: a white section on the bottom for special hazards; a blue section on the left for health hazards; a red section at the top for fire hazards; and a yellow setion on the right for reactivity hazards. Each color box contains a number from 0-4, specifying the corresponding hazard level for the material contained in the container or area.
So for powder, primers, and most reloading materials, the white square at the bottom would be blank, the blue square on the left would contain a "0" for no specific health hazard, the red square at the top would contain a "3" for moderate fire hazard, and the yellow square to the right would contain a "3" or a "4" for high reactivity hazard, depending on what you're storing.
Not a gun nut myself, but a frequent reader, and a deputy fire chief. Hope that helps. :)
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